just wondering how that works and are the results washable. tks

You have to use fabric that is treated so the ink doesn't wash out.
I treat my own fabric with Bubble Jet Set 2000. I use a high thread count fabric, it seems to work better that just a plain old muslin. I iron it to freezer paper so it will feed through the printer. After printing let dry and then I wash by hand and use the Bubble Jet Rinse. The ink does fade some with washing, so I'm not sure that I would use it in something that gets frequent washings.
You can also buy fabric that is already pretreated and ready to print. I've never used that, so I don't know how well it works.
HTH
Jami

The bubble jet set is the most economical way to go. I've made several photo quilts and they're completely washable. The pre-treated fabric sheets have a lower thread count. I like making my own sheets because I can control the quality of fabric that I use.

Janice

This is interesting info ... I have not yet attempted one of these, but I have recently been thinking about doing so.

Some one told me to always be sure to iron the image to "set" it before sewing it into the quilt. They did not mention bubble jet rinse.

Do you do this? If so, do you iron it before the bubble jet rinse or after?

Pat

I use the pretreated sheets for labels. I haven't washed my quilts enough to know how long it stays without washing out or fading. And most of the quilts have been given away or donated, so again, I don't know the results.

Bubble Jet stuff is used when you use your own fabric, and I've never used it.

Where, pray tell, does one buy Bubble Jet Rinse 2000. At the computer store? At your LQS? At a full service fabric/hobby store? I have never seen it, but then I wasn't looking.

Do you use any high thread count muslin? Or dyers muslin? Isn't that what it is called? My guess is that the dyers muslin might hold the ink better since it is treated to do just that.

I am also curious about saturation ability of high versus a lower thread count muslin. It could be that the manufacturer of the pre-treated printer sheets uses a lower thread count to save money and boost the bottom line in profits. Or it could be that a looser weave allows the threads to be more saturated with color, and hence less fading.

You guys have really piqued my curiosity on this one. You know how I avoid all things technical, like the plague! LOL But this may require some further investigation. Just have to see when to fit it in on my list of 10,000 quilts to make! LOL

Do any of you have pictures of your picture quilts? Would be nice to have an album where those of us who are novices at this could compare different techniques.

Meg-
I got my Bubble Jet 2000 at the LQS, but you should be able to find it online.
Everything I've read says to use a high thread count fabric. I have used "thinner" fabric, but didn't like the results.
And I use the Bubble Jet Rinse after it has been printed and allowed to dry. I have found the l onger you let it dry (overnight), the better the color remains on the fabric.
HTH
Jami

Lots of good info in here on this topic!

I saw a deal on TV awhile back that showed one of the ways they "remake" replica fabrics for antique quilt repair. They would scan a portion of the old quilt. Save it to file...and print it out on fabric with one of those compatible fabric printers. She said it might be a shade off, but it will be as close to that antique fabric (print...color...whatever) that only the sharpest eagle eye would be able to spot it. I thought that was a GREAT TIP!

She also said if you were doing a block and ran out of a little piece of fabric you could do it there too. Nifty little idea if you're in a pinch!

www.soft-expressions.com or www.clotilde.com have the best prices on the bubble jet set. Sometimes www.nancysnotions.com has the better price, you just have to check around. You do not need the rinse. You can use a mild soap like Joy, Dove or even hand soap to wash them after the ink has been set. I print mine and let them set overnight then press them before washing by hand in the sink. Remove the freezer paper before washing. They don't need alot of washing. Just fix a sink of dishwater and put them in and swish them around, drain, and then rinse until water is clear of soap. There will be some ink released from the fabric when you first put the fabric in the dishwater...this is normal. When the rinse water is clear, squeeze out the water (don't twist or wring out), then dry in the dryer until almost dry. You can press them to finish drying. If you want them stiffer, just use starch or sizing, square them up and they're ready to sew into a quilt.

www.breyerpatch.com has valuable info on the bubble jet set too. I've made several of these quilts and the BJS is the best and most cost effective way to make these quilts. Whatever chemical that you have left over after soaking your fabric can be put back into the bottle and used again. Before using this chemical, wash your fabric and dry. Do not use fabric softener, it'll resist the chemical. Bottle says to wear gloves, I never do and still have my hands.

Editing to say that it seems that you have to have special permission to have a signature line. Here's a link to my photos...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/quiltsrfun2005/


Janice

I have done several, my latest 4 for Christmas of 2006, will attach a pic of one of them.

Donna

Family_Crazy_Patch_1_50KB.jpg (49 Kb, 41 downloads)